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SATURDAY CLUB 6TH OCTOBER 2018



Today’s club was brought forward by one week due to the Masterclass with Andrew Hall being held on the 13th and was delighted to see so many members there; it just goes to show that the website is working.


There was much activity going on with John producing the new safety screens for the lathes and then with help from other members attached them to the lathes. They have been made in such a way that any screen will fit any lathe so that there is no question of which one goes where.


Whilst we were setting up two new faces appeared and they were Peter Weston and a lady called Marmada and they were made very welcome.


The morning started with the normal notices with John then telling everyone what was going to happen which was:- Bill Thorne would be turning Dibbers and Mushrooms (Bill you will have to let someone have ago someday). Myself would show how to make a pen and during the morning two members made them. Then on the Myford would be Dave Reynolds and John teaching the two new comers the basics of wood turning. John also helped Marmada who had managed to purchase a number of tools by describing what the tools were and the condition of them.


As usual there was a lot of banter going on between Bill and his audience plus the other tutors especially when it was mentioned that the Safety Screen wasn’t big enough to keep him total enclosed.  Bill also brought a large amount of very large Spalted Beech blocks which were for sale.


David Jenkins and John Webb were on hand to help with the refreshments also Mike Sharp for any queries about the website.


It was now time to think about packing up and as usual all the members helped with the clear up and everything was put away in a very short space of time.


Sorry no photos this time due to the fact that I was turning.


Written by Don Smith.

SATURDAY 13TH OCTOBER MASTERCLASS DEMONSTRATION

WITH ANDREW HALL THE HAT MAKER



The hall was all set up ready for the arrival of Andrew who had stayed at John & Joy Webb overnight.

John Wyatt the chairman called the audience to order and introduced Andrew to them to a round of applause.


Andrew started by saying that his first project was going to be an exercise to get himself motivated and advised all turner to always start their day with an exercise piece his was going to be an Spectacle Holder .

He congratulated the club on the state of the lathe with the polished Tool rest, Andrew showed us a piece of kit called a Garrison Block for just rubbing over the bed of the lathe to remove any moisture or debris. (Amazon for about £5 to £6.00).


The piece of wood to be used was 60mm square by 100mm long marked out the centre point on both ends and placed between centres on the lathe. Setting the rest at 6mm below centre and 6mm away from the work piece then using the Roughing Spindle Gouge it was turned to the round. The next part was to drill two 9mm holes as seen in the photo one was where the head will be the other in the body. Then a chucking point was turned at the body end and the piece was removed from between centres and then replaced in the chuck.


Marking the head position which was 40mm from the end of the piece using a parting tool he went in at that point to a depth to make the neck. Using this as a marker the head was turned into a sphere making sure that he broke through the hole which had been drilled earlier. Once this was achieved the body was turned and Andrew then drilled two eye holes plus one for the nose before sanding going through the gits to 600 then sealed with Sander Sealer it was then polished using the buffing system.


The eyes can be purchased through Dainty Supplies and look for Teddy Bear Eyes (Link Here).

9mm holes being drilled

Finished spectacle holder showing purpose of body hole

Andrew now gave a brief summary on how he got into woodturning, firstly at the age of sixteen he joined the Navy on a six months trial and then whilst on leave his father got him an interview with the company that he worked for and he then went from strength to strength to the position that he is in today. Making his famous Hats and Guitars as well as Teaching, demonstrating.


His next project was going to be a small Hat so picking up his Cling Filmed blank stressing that the reason for this was to keep the moister in as much as possible which would become more apparent as time went on.


Fixing the blank on a Screw Chuck mounted on the lathe the tailstock was brought up to it as a steady after checking everything out he proceeded to turn.


Using the Bowl Gouge the blank was turned round and when satisfied he then proceeded to turn it to a cone to approx half the thickness of the blank.


Trimmed up the top of the crown and marked a circle which was the outside dimension of the crown plus 2 or 3mm.

Using this mark as a guide he turned outwards from that mark to a depth of 25mm down the waste side of that mark using the parting tool he turned a slot recess to half the depth of the blank.

Moving the tool rest to the side he again using the parting tool cut a groove through the side until it met up with the slot which came in from the top.

This presented him with a piece of wood with a hole, and a wall which could be turned into a clock surround or even a mirror. Once this had all been achieved he commenced to turn the Crown and outer brim of the hat.

When it had arrived at its finished size a hat band was add in colour using Derwent Coloured Pencils Andrew found that these pencils were best as they didn’t bleed when finishing with lacquers etc.


The old chucking point was turned off and a new one turned on the top of the Crown. Normally it would have been sanded before the hat band was added.

It was now removed from the Screw Chuck and placed it into the chuck immediately and if at any time it seems to be drying out to quickly just spray it with water.

Blank showing the 25mm top with slot cut into the crown

Shows the ring removed and starting of the outside of the hat

Hat reversed and showing the light

Hat about to be reversed showing the light through the rim

The hollowing out of the crown, turning the brim down to a thickness of 2 to 3mm was carried out using the Sewing Machine Magnetic LED light system to show though the wall thickness, once satisfied this would again been sanded ready for the finishing oils.

At this point it was again taken of the chuck but this time it was reversed using a Light Jam Chuck.

This chuck was a turned cylinder hollowed out to a size which would take (in this case) three Maglites which were bound together with tape also on the outside was a piece of a Routing Mat to give grip when the hat was placed on it. The lights were switched on and placed inside the jam chuck facing outwards; hat was fixed in place with the tailstock brought up as support.

With care the top of the crown was turned down using the lights to give constant colour through the top shaping it as you turned. The final part was to remove the tailstock and with much caution remove the final pip.

The point to make here is that during the whole process of turning the hat it was kept wet with your water sprayer.


Andrew now explained how he shaped the hat rim.

If you would like to require a Sew Machine light go to Google put in SEWING MACHINE LIGHTS and they will cost you £3.69 postage free from Amazon.


Taking a pair of sprung clamps placed them over the base of the crown and using strong elastic bands placed them over the rim back over the top of the crown. This process would take three or four days to reach the required shaping and of course you would be tightening the bands as each day passed.


Lunchtime was announced and all looking forward to the afternoon session.

Finished Hat

We reconvened and Andrew told us that the next object to be made would be an Owl.


A Daddy Owl, Mummy Owl and a Baby Owl were shown to us and it was explained that these were first seen by him in Germany when he went over to do a demo so he returned to the UK and put his own twist on them.


Approximate dimensions for them are Daddy Head 100mm x100mm, Body 100mm x 60mm x60mm.

Mummy Head 80mm x 80mm, Body 80mm x 45mm x 45mm and Babies Head 50mm x 50mm and the Body 70mm x 40mm x 40mm.


Using the Mother Owl dimensions it was turned as follows: - placed between centres turned to a 70mm cylinder find the centre of its length (35mm), turn a button size spigot on each end 5mm in length. Mark in from each face 22.9mm to 23.00mm then start to turn your sphere once.


Setting up his Sphere turning jig he finished it to the point that he had a sphere with the two buttons left.

It was at this point that he decided to show how to make a Cup jam chuck.


Taking a block of Nylon placed between centres turned it round and put chucking points at each end, removed it from between centres and place one end in the chuck. The end which was faced the tailstock a hole was drilled   to the size of the revolving live centre then he stated to turn a cove in the centre of the length so that each side was equal once satisfied he parted them into two pieces.


First piece placed in the chuck jaws and a concave hollow was turned finished and was then replaced for the second piece to have the same procedure carried out. The two pieces were then presented to the club.

Well we know had two jam chuck and a sphere with two buttons so these had to be removed so using the new chucks the sphere was placed between them and the tailstock tightened so that the two buttons were revolving about the centre point, making certain that they were firmly fixed the buttons were turned off.


Of course now came the point of how does one turn the eye sockets for each eye and to take a coloured eye.

Simple! You here one says if only who had a special jig.

Top of Ball Jig

Side of Ball Jig

These two photos show the top and side views of the jig for holding the Baby Owls Head , Andrew had a few of these special jigs varying in sixes depending upon which Owl he was making.


Simple in its construction and without going into all the turning details, but briefly it make up is a main body with a inward dome turned to the size of sphere that you are making.

The top was turned off the main body after you had drilled the four pilot holes and marked the alignment position on the side. The top is concaved inside to match the shape of your sphere and then small material pads added for protection against burning and marking of the finished item.

The holes were drilled, threaded with a 6mm tap the top was drilled with clearance holes and the whole thing fitted together.

Now to turning the eye sockets set your compass at 15mm you selected where your first eye was going to go and you draw a 30mm circle making certain that you leave a good witness mark in the centre.

Move the point of you compass to the outside line and mark off the centre point for your second eye, place the point on this mark and draw the second eye.

Now using the jig above you set your head in to the base and start to tighten the jig, place the whole jig on the lathe bring up your tail stock and find the first centre spot and tighten it all together.

Turn and shape your eye socket sand carefully and once satisfied undo the bolts turn the head to the second point and carry out the same procedure. Drill a hole in the centre to take your eyeball.


The day finished with Andrew explaining how he made his Guitars then gave us a heart warming rendering on each of them.

Written and photographed by Don Smith and John Butt

CLUB NIGHT 17TH October 2018


Jason Breech was introduced to the members and his first comment was when I saw all those chairs surely they won’t be filled.


His first project was going to be Off Centre turning but as this was done last time he revert to plan B which was going to be a Rice Bowl with Chopsticks.  I won’t go in to all the in sand outs of turning the bowl except to say that he used a Screw Chuck for the first turning which was the base of the bowl.


Once he was satisfied with the finished shape he sanded it going through the grits from 150 to 400. The base was then given a coat of Danish Oil and sanded again, before a final coat of Danish oil which applied and then was buffed by hand.

The bowl was then reversed chucked and hollowed out.

Jason made the point that as you start hollowing it is best to get the first 25mm or so turned to the wall thickness that you require about 5mm to 6mm.

As you remove more the wood leave the centre as bulk which will give structure to the base of the bowl as you wind your way done the inside.

With your Callipers keep checking the wall thickness right down to the bottom of the bowl.

Once satisfied, sand and finish as you did the outside.


The bowl was once again reversed chucked using his Button Jaws so that the original chucking point could be removed.


Jason gave a very useful tip on sanding the base of the inside of the Bowl which was place sawdust inside a folded piece of sandpaper and uses it as a cushion.


After refreshments the Chairman read out the monthly competition results which were as follows:-


Beginners Scott Waugh with 48 points


Intermediates Joint First Place Walter Siegerist and Nick Rose with 53 points and Frank Chatfield with 51 points.

John thanked them all for entering.

Finished inside of Bowl

Finished base of Bowl

Jason started the second session by explaining the marking out for cutting the rim of the bowl.  He quartered the rim to enable him to mark the first point at 20mm from the rim quartered this dimension.

Then using the ¾ point he marked the first point round then the halfway mark to the third point and the ¼ mark to the fourth point.  Using a pencil he joined each point up from the 20mm position round to the top of the starting point which was infinity.

Using a Arbour Tec with a special cutter he removed the rim of the Bowl.

It was at this point that Jason stated that he hadn’t brought the tool with him to make the hole in the bowl which would eventually take the Chopsticks.


This would have been in the top left corner of the cut-out as you look at the photo.


Jason then said that he would now make the Chopsticks using Cocobolo and Spigot Jaws placing his piece 260mm long piece of wood in the Jaws with a Ring live centre at the other.

The reason for using a Ring Centre is that you will prevent splitting the thin end of the piece.

Rice Bowl showing the rim cut away

Using a Jason Breech Skew he turned each Chopstick down to a tapered round and turned two beads at the thick end then sand and finished.

Pair of Chopsticks

Top of box Lids showing the pattern

The finish to his demo was to turn off the Epoxy Resin mixed with African Blackwood dust which had been applied to a box lid which had already been off centre turned.

Jason finished with a round of applause and it was time to clean up.


Written and Photos by Don Smith